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Casa de Piatra, a remote hamlet in the heart of Transylvania.

190926-ro-apuseni

In the heart of Transylvania, Romania lies a mountain area that is still little known: the Apuseni Mountains (the "mountains at the sunset"), also known (in geography books) as Western Carpathians.

These mountains are a world unto itself. Comprising a large variety of geographical forms, not very high (the highest peak is 1849 metres asl) but with impressive karstic landscapes and traditional livelihoods, hosting a rich fauna and flora, they are unique in Romania and, in many respects, in Europe. 

The local, native inhabitants are called Motzi and they live here permanently, in smaller or larger hamlets, some of them situated even at altitudes of over 1600 metres.

The landscape of these mountains is among the last forested karstic landscapes in Europe. Caves, potholes, sinkholes, gorges, karstic glades covered mainly conifer but also deciduous forests.

Casa de Piatra ("Stone House") is a remote hamlet somewhere in the heart of these mountains, in a picturesque valley limited by rocky walls and surrounded by conifer forests. Life was always harsh here, with long lasting winters, lots of snow till late spring and with short summers. Very few vegetables, almost no fruit (except wild berries and mushrooms). Fortunately, there are pastures with high natural value (given also by the traditional way of managing them – cattle grazing, natural fertilisers, grass is hand cut with the scythe) and people’s cattle have a very good quality milk. And, until two decades ago, there was also plenty of wood available.

The forests were owned by the state, communities or families and the people lived for generations from wood work. They were producing logs, timber, domestic products such as vessels of all sizes (from small capacity to very large ones) and sold them for cereals and different other foods or domestic goods.

But times have changed.  Nowadays their access to wood is dramatically restricted. Currently in the hamlet live 9 families out of 14 until some years ago. People (mainly youngsters) started to leave the place as they saw no future here. Except one family.

The family used to live, for generations, from wood work, as well. But since this was not possible anymore they invested more energy and resources in tourism. The family was always warmly welcoming travellers in this area, anyway. But they realised that, if they manage their (limited) resources in a smart way, this could provide a future for them and their children. And it proved to be true.

They opened their house for accommodating tourists. The tourists were offered home-cooked meals based on local recipes and local ingredients (mainly meat, milk products, potatoes, mushrooms, wild berries). Tourists were invited - and they happily accepted – to take part in the family’s farming activities. The place became well known for the authentic experiences one can have as a guest of this local family who really enjoys having guests and sharing with them.

One son is also a local tourist guide. He and his wife decided to develop this family tourist business. They live together with their parents and their son in a large, traditional house. The travellers are hosted in a cosy wooden pension. He is organising trips all year round and guiding tourists in the entire area, his wife is cooking and looking after the household and the parents are helping with everything they can. And when sitting by the fire with a cup of tea or hot milk, they tell about the history and the legends of the place and of its people.

Local food based on local ingredients, local services, sustainable use of local resources (wood, mushrooms, wild berries, herbs, water), cultural exchange, learning from each other. Authentic experiences.

Wood work is not of interest anymore, in Casa de Piatra hamlet, for this family. And the good news is that the other families who refused to leave the place (for various reasons) started to take this good example of their neighbours.

All families in the hamlet are still doing farming but now they use this also as part of the tourist experience they offer.  

From a living based exclusively on working the wood to ecotourism, in a picturesque hamlet in the heart of the mountains, well, I believe this is the way to follow for many other mountain communities if they want to have a future.

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