EVEN Cartographers have inside jokes. For in the country of Ecuador, in its Amazon basin lies a town that when I arrived in 1984, on the shores of the Napo River, was so pustulent  and  forelorn, that the whole pueblo seemed to teeter a bit under the weight of its  conquistatory name: FRANCISCO DE ORELLANA. In fact, most people just called it Coca after the nearby Coca River, as if to alleviate some of the cargo caused by its official name.